04-24-2015, 02:13 PM | #1 |
Dingleberries
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Night Photography
Got a question...how do I determine the correct shutter speed?
Many different situations mean many different settings, so some generalization can be applied when you answer. 1) For example, shooting a landscape and sky with no ambient light (1am for instance, not in a city). Set up the camera in manual mode, choose an aperature, but how long do you need to expose for? is 1 minute good or do you need 5 minutes to get enough light in? (also keeping a low ISO) 2) Shooting near street lights, etc where there is ambient light. No matter what aperature you chose, the camera won't suggest a shutter speed. So how do you calculate what shutter speed is good? How much do you want to play with ISO versus just taking a longer exposure? Just getting into night shooting and I know there is some trial and error, but trying to avoid doing a 20 minute exposure just to find out it gets washed out or something. Thanks! |
04-24-2015, 02:56 PM | #2 |
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trial and error, my friend! It all comes with experience. Take your time, enjoy the night, and play with your camera- it will not be a waste of your time.
A good photograph tells a story, but without words. What you want the photograph to tell the audience all depends on you and your imagination. Every scene you photograph will be different based on available light, type and direction of light, and the type of picture you want (artistic, 1st person POV, etc). The "right" shutter speed ultimately depends on many things! You don't need to start with a 20 minute exposure (which is LONG!). Work your way up to longer exposures; start with short exposures and then watch what happens when you continue to add additional seconds or minutes to the exposure time. When you do that, you will get a feel for how much more light can be added to the picture. Here are a few quick amateur examples of pics I took 10 years ago with a very basic 100 dollar point and shoot camera set to manual mode. Lightning picture: F4 25 second exposure Fireworks: F4.5 8 second exposure Race cars at Petite LeMans: F3 1.3 second exposure |
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04-24-2015, 08:49 PM | #3 |
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^^
Listen to this guy! I concur, it's pretty much all trial and error. Play with Bulb mode. Use a remote. Consider bringing a powerful flashlight and using it to light-paint your foreground. Bring beers. Lowest ISO is always best for minimal noise, but no always needed. Each stop of higher ISO cuts your exposure time in half. Play at higher ISO first with shorter exposure times, and if you like a shot but don't like the noise, cut the ISO and increase the exposure. Enjoy! |
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04-25-2015, 08:49 PM | #4 | |
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04-27-2015, 10:45 AM | #5 |
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Thanks for the information. the examples above definitely helped me understand the shutter speed question, along with trial and error.
I will hopefully get some time this weekend to experiment as I am going climbing in Kentucky away from the cities. Beer will be plentiful so this should be a great experiment! Thank you very much for the responses. |
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04-27-2015, 11:07 AM | #6 |
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For situation 1) you'll want less than 30-sec. if you want to avoid star trails:
Our first night, the stars were bright. by dcstep, on Flickr For situation 2), pump up the ISO to around 6400 and be sure to hold the camera steady. Perhaps the reason you're not seeing an aperture is that it's impossible for the lens that you have on. The camera is calculating f/1 and your lens only goes to f/4. Pumping up ISO will solve this: King's Arms Tavern - Colonial Williamsburg by dcstep, on Flickr Click on the images to go to Flickr and see EXIF data.
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04-27-2015, 11:52 AM | #7 |
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Thank you! You guys are very knowledgable and helpful. I don't use ISO as much as I should. I took some indoor "dark" pictures this weekend and experiemented with ISO. Going to put them on the computer and see if I can see any noise.
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04-27-2015, 11:57 AM | #8 | |
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To minimize noise at high ISOs, don't under-expose. That will add noise when you raise the exposure level in Raw conversion. Dave
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04-27-2015, 02:19 PM | #9 | |
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My editting abilities in lightroom are pretty minable. I need a tutorial on that software. I just play with the dials until the photo looks good to me! |
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04-27-2015, 02:59 PM | #10 | |
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I use DxO, not LR, but adjust Shadows and Highlights (not so much in a night shot, usually), overall Levels, Noise Reduction, Sharpness and Contrast. Don't get too carried away with any one slider and you should be okay. Be careful not to get too carried away with Chromanence NR, since that can crush details.
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05-08-2015, 09:50 PM | #11 |
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Handheld, low shutter and high ISO.
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05-08-2015, 10:11 PM | #12 |
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Chicago on the Saturday evening before the Super Bowl Sunday snowstorm.
Hand held at 0.4sec, ISO 5000, f4 with the Canon 16-35mm f4 IS on a 6D. Chicago, IL by Mark Johnson, on Flickr Sometimes you can get away with a much lower ISO if you have a fast lens and there is a lot of light in the frame, even if it's night. This is ISO 200, so very little noise. Still handheld at 1/125 sec with a non-stabilized lens wide open at f1.4. St. Augustine, FL by Mark Johnson, on Flickr Tripods are a good thing for some night shots. This was a 2 second shot with a non-stabilized lens. No way to hand hold this one. Just some quick trial and error and some chimping. Coles County Fair 2014 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
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05-09-2015, 05:56 PM | #13 | |
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05-11-2015, 03:40 PM | #15 |
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05-29-2015, 02:29 PM | #16 |
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Some excellent advice on this thread for any budding night photographer. Especially when it comes to low(ish) iso and shutter speeds if you want good, clear stars, as opposed to streaks.
Sometimes, of course, and especially here in the north of Scotland, all we want are some good clear night skies. When we do get a good sky and forecast, it's possible to get a good shot at higher iso, this one was taken at 1000 iso, but only to keep the shutter speed shorter. Canon 5DII, 17-40L, 13 secs, f/4.0, 1000 iso.
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05-29-2015, 02:49 PM | #18 | |
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05-29-2015, 03:04 PM | #19 | |
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Beautiful image.
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05-29-2015, 03:10 PM | #20 |
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Thanks guys.
This is Covesea Lighthouse, just outside Lossiemouth, Morayshire, on The Moray Firth coast. Just about half a mile away, off to the left of this shot, are some brightly illuminated buildings on the base at RAF Lossiemouth. So, whilst ambient light can usually be a PITA, at this location it works well to illuminate the lighthouse.
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06-14-2015, 09:45 PM | #21 | |
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06-14-2015, 10:04 PM | #22 |
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Great shot Alan. The brightness of the lighthouse didn't give you much choice, except to keep the exposure relatively short. Great aurora.
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